中国虽为纺织大国,总量庞大,但纺织服装业却一直处于全球价值链
的低端,赚取微薄利润。近几年发生的国际金融危机、原材料紧缺、东南
亚新兴制造业国家低价竞争等一系列危机,成功唤醒了中国纺织服装业转
型升级的意识。由于现今一国产业的竞争,说到底归根于其相关产业集群
的竞争,全球价值链就像用无数个产业集群穿起来的“珍珠项链”;所以以
产业集群为单位进行研究,具有更軍要的现实意义
.在全球化的背景下,影响中国纺织服装集群升级的因素很多;基于全
球价值链理论,动力机制、治理模式、全球纺织产业转移、政府和行业协
会几个方面都会影响到中国纺织服装产业集群的升级。属于购买型驱动的
中国纺织服装产业集群,驱动力在流通领域,应更注重设计和营销能力的
发展;市场型、关系型、领导型共存的中国纺织服装产业集群,不同治理
模式下的流程、产品、功能升级的速率都有所不同;全球纺织产业转移曾
给中国纺织服装产业集群带来巨大的机遇,现在又带来莫大的挑战,倒逼
中国纺织服装产业集群的转移与升级;政府进行政策引导、制度创新、做
好配套服务工作,促进纺织服装集群升级;行业协会负责架好政府与企业
之间的桥梁,促进集群内信息交流、加强企业之间的凝聚力,积极打造集
群“品牌”。这四个因素都对中国纺织服装产业集群的升级发展起到了重要
作用,在制定升级相关策略的时候也要将之考虑进去
关键词:全球价值链,治理模式,纺织服装产业集群,升级
THE RESEARCH ON THE UPGRADING OF CHINESE
INDUSTRIAL CLUSTERS OF TEXTILE AND APPAREL
UNDER THE GLOBAL VALUE CHAINS
ABSTRACT
Under the background of globalization,resources are optimized allocated all
over the world,thus forming the global value chains.The theory of global value
chains(GVC) is a new one who combines two perspectives of micro and macro
to reconsider economic development under globalization.Although the theory of
GVC is not yet a mature one,its reference to mode of drive,governance form and
the type of upgrading of local clusters based on the GVC,has provided a sound
theoretical basis for analyzing the problems of development and upgrading from
a more comprehensive way.
China is a country who produces a large quantity of textiles,but its industry
of apparel and textile has always at the low-end of the GVC and earning only
slender profits.In recent years,China bears the circumstance of financial
crisis,shortage of raw materials, emerging manufacturing countries in Southeast
Asia who participate the competition with low price and so on. All of those have
successfully raised the consciousness of the transformation and upgrading of
Chinese apparel and textile industry.Based on the reason that the competition of
a country is a competition of its industrial clusters on earth.The GVC is just like
a pearl necklace made of numerous industrial clusters,so it's of great
importance to make researchs based on the perspective of industrial clusters.
There are many facts who have affected the upgrading of Chinese industrial
clusters of apparel and textile industry under the background of
globalization.Based on the theory of GVC,several aspects have an influence on
the upgrading of the apparel and textile industry of China,which are mode of
drive,governance mode,the relocation of global textile industry,as well as the
role of governments and industrial associations.Beloning to buyer-driven
chains,the driving force of Chinese apparel and textile industry lies in the part of
circulation,so China should pay great attention to the development of the
abilities in designing and marketing.As to the governance mode,there are three
types in Chinese textile and apparel clusters,which are markets,relational and
captive value chains.Rates of process upgrading,product upgrading and
functional upgrading vary under different forms of the governance of GVC .The
relocation of global textile industry has brought Chinese textile and apparel
dusters great oppotunities,but now more great challenges,forcing its
transformation and upgrading.Goverments use policy guidance,systematic
innovation and do good jobs to support services of upgraing.Industrial
associations bridge a sound relationship between governments and
enterprises,promoting information communications and enhancing cohensions
among enterprises,as well as making efforts to promote the brand of
clusters.Those four facts have played great roles in the development of
upgrading of Chinese textile and apparel clusters5so we must take them into
account when making policies.
KEY WORDS:global value chain,governance form,textile and apparel
clusters,upgrading
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